Hotel Review: Silky Oaks Lodge in Queensland, Australia

Remember the start of the pandemic, when we all vowed that we’d use the “great pause” to better ourselves?

Well, Silky Oaks Lodge in tropical north Queensland, Australia, did just that. Originally built in 1985, the property reopened in February 2022 after spending 21 months undergoing a $14.7 million renovation. 

In truth, the refresh wasn’t spurred by lockdowns, but rather by a change in ownership.

Although Silky Oaks was already a member of the Luxury Lodges of Australia collection, in 2019, it became part of the Baillie Lodges family, as well. But regardless of the reason for the refresh, the result is the same: Silky Oaks Lodge is the living embodiment of that award-winning book we were all going to write while in lockdown.

Its opening chapter is the main lodge, which sets the scene. This is where I arrived first, after driving an hour north from the Cairns airport on a winding road that skirts along the ocean. Housing the reception, lounge and restaurant area — where guests enjoy inclusive pre-dinner cocktails and canapes, and multi-course meals with wine pairings — its roof has been lifted to 23 feet, enhancing its connection to the Mossman River and the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest. As I sat down for my first Asian-inspired meal, made with ingredients sourced from local suppliers or grown in the on-site garden, I took in the rainforest canopy and watched the river flow below. 

Relaxing Rooms

The 40 private treehouses, some with views of the Mossman River and one that’s fully accessible, also bear a strong connection to the location. All are named for cute rainforest creatures (the area is home to some 74 species of mammals, 150 species of reptiles and 330 species of birds), so I was a bit disappointed to find out I’d been allocated the “Golden Orb” room, named for mammoth-size spiders known for weaving titanium-strength webs.

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But any disappointment dissipated the moment I set foot in my room, with its custom Baillie bed and linens, with a mattress soft enough to cuddle guests to sleep, but not so soft that the guests will wake up with back issues. Muted natural tones are offset by the occasional pop of olive green, like in the bathroom’s Artedomus Verde Bardini granite countertops. The effect is that the rainforest remains the main character, with vibrant green digital photo collages by Australian artist Catherine Nelson reinforcing its central role.  

Turning the page, I made it my mission to determine how many ways I could recline. First, I slipped into the freestanding outdoor soaker tub and watched brilliant blue Ulysses butterflies flit past, then dried off by reading a book on my front porch hammock (a guest favorite, these hammocks predate the renovation). When that’s all done, it was time to sip a cocktail beside the two-tiered swimming pool. 

Amenities and Activities

I was so caught up in doing nothing that I didn’t even have a time for a visit to the Healing Waters Spa, where the treatment rooms have rainforest views, or to kayak on the Mossman River. Nor did I even bother to pretend I was going to use the gym, borrow a mountain bike to ride into the nearby town of Mossman — although I did seriously consider the morning yoga and exploring the property’s 80 acres via one of the walking trails.

Like the best luxury property, this is the kind of place where the hours disappear without any effort. Yet, it’s also the kind of place where clients will want to budget an extra night or two to explore the surrounding area — the minimum two-night stay simply isn’t enough. The town of Port Douglas is a short drive away, and within 30 minutes, visitors can be snorkeling, diving or taking a glass-bottomed boat on the Great Barrier Reef.

Even closer are the waters of the Mossman River. While the river will always play second fiddle to one of the world’s greatest natural wonders, it’s just as worthy of dedicating an afternoon to, with operators such as Backcountry Bliss offering river floats and snorkeling. Rest assured that it’s also crocodile-free; this is one story without any villains. I learned that even the Golden Orb spider is harmless and beautiful in its own way — if you look close enough, you’ll see it weaves silk the color of gold.

On my last morning, I headed down to the beach billabong, a sandy stretch of riverbank where it’s easy to slip into the Mossman river’s clear and cool green waters. On my way, I passed by the property’s brand-new, two-bedroom Daintree Pavilion, its design mimicking the main lodge’s, with an alfresco common area and private plunge pool. 

As I looked out toward the nearby waterfall, I realized that I may have reached the final chapter in my Silky Oaks story.

But I wasn’t ready for it to end. 

The Details
Silky Oaks Lodge