Like Honolulu or Rio de Janeiro, the city of San Juan, Puerto Rico, combines big-city sophistication with sun-soaked beaches. And in Puerto Rico’s capital, there are actually three main beaches to consider, each with its own distinct vibe.
Vacationing in an urban beach destination such as San Juan offers the best of both worlds. You can spend a day at the beach, then follow it up with shopping, a world-class meal and cocktails at a hip bar. San Juan’s biggest beachfront neighborhoods — Isla Verde, Condado and Ocean Park — provide lots of options, but savvy travelers familiar with the destination often have a favorite neighborhood where they prefer to stay.
This guide — based on my own most recent visit and culled from personal experience over the past 30 years — serves as a reference to what makes these three areas unique.
Isla Verde
As the beach neighborhood that’s closest to San Juan’s Luis Munoz Marin International Airport, Isla Verde offers a convenient location, a wide stretch of sand and a variety of hotels and restaurants.
This beach is ideal for activities including parasailing, speedboat tours, sunset boat rides, banana boat rides and Jet Skiing. Some hotels arrange their own watersports, or visitors can use the services of local companies such as Watersports 4U.
Top beachfront hotels in Isla Verde include Fairmont El San Juan Hotel, which has a spa and casino and hosts daily live entertainment in the on-site Chico Cabaret speakeasy; San Juan Water Beach Club Hotel, which exudes boutique style; and The Royal Sonesta San Juan, which is home to a spa and restaurants including a Ruth’s Chris Steak House.
Other noteworthy eateries in Isla Verde include Platos Restaurant & Bar — which specializes in Puerto Rican delicacies such as mofongo (a dish made with mashed plantains) and often hosts live musical performances — and Piu Bello Gelato & Restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and specializes in gelato.
For a shopping fix, the nearest large-scale option is The Mall of San Juan, an upscale retail center that’s a few minutes away by car and is known for its international brand-name retailers and restaurants.
Condado
The fabulous tasting menu that my husband and I recently enjoyed at the sumptuous 1919 Restaurant at the upscale Condado Vanderbilt Hotel is just one example of how Condado is an especially rewarding beach destination for foodies and upscale travel. Headed by Michelin-star executive chef Juan Jose Cuevas, 1919 is one of the city’s most celebrated restaurants, perfect for a romantic dinner after a day on the nearby beach.
The concentration of hotels, restaurants, shops and nightlife, in fact, make Condado the most walkable of San Juan’s beachfront neighborhoods. The broad main beach attracts a diverse array of sun worshippers, though swimming is not recommended. There’s also a much smaller beach, Playita del Condado, located next to The Condado Plaza Hotel, where the calm, shallow waters are especially good for families.
One of the advantages of staying in Condado is its proximity to Condado Lagoon, where visitors can rent paddleboards and kayaks from VIP Adventures Puerto Rico to explore the lagoon and join nighttime, LED-illuminated kayak tours. Tour operator E-Bike & Kayak, meanwhile, offers morning, sunset and after-dark kayaking experiences, as well as nighttime stand-up paddleboarding and e-bike tours.
The streets of Condado are dotted with a variety of shops and boutiques stocking local and international designer brands, and it’s the closest beach neighborhood to Old San Juan.
Among the best hotels in the area are Condado Vanderbilt, a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts that’s one of Puerto Rico’s longest-established names in upscale hospitality, and San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino, which offers vintage loaner bicycles, free sunrise yoga sessions, beach volleyball and recently debuted pool cabanas.
Ocean Park
This quiet neighborhood is decidedly smaller and less commercial than Condado and Isla Verde; much of it is primarily a residential, gated community. That makes Ocean Park an especially good choice for those who prefer a laid-back environment with smaller hotels.
Beach activities in Ocean Park can be arranged through businesses such as Wind Addiction Kitesurfing, a school offering classes for kitesurfers of every experience level.
Hotel options include Numero Uno Beach House, where clients can partake in activities such as eFoiling (an electric surfboard), tow-in surfing, kiteboarding and wakeboarding. Accommodation categories include standard hotel rooms and “boutique beach apartments” with kitchenettes.
Also in Ocean Park is Dreamcatcher by DW, a 19-room hotel billed as San Juan’s only vegetarian boutique hotel. The property hosts optional add-on experiences such as photo sessions, surfing classes, day and night yoga sessions and bar tours. Another option is Coqui del Mar, a queer, clothing-optional guesthouse that organizes tours and activities for its clients.
Dining options in Ocean Park include UVVA Restaurant, which serves international cuisine in an oceanview venue at the Hosteria del Mar hotel, and Kasalta, a casual, local favorite known for its sandwiches and desserts.