“Do you guys want to go snorkeling, or is it time for lunch?” asked Tim, our friendly captain.
There were no difficult decisions on this carefree cruise. We were sailing on a 38-foot Boston Whaler 370 private charter boat on an excursion with Frenchman’s Reef resort; saltwater misted our faces and the wind whipped through my hair.
The newly reopened Frenchman's Reef in St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI), is a place to behold, but the resort is especially proud of its eight-boat aquatic fleet. Through a partnership with Red Hospitality and Leisure, exclusive charters depart from the resort’s private dock. The Flying Frenchman, a 65-foot catamaran (and the first fly-bridge commercial catamaran in the USVI) is ideal for sunset cruises and larger groups of up to 125 people.
For our customized day trip, we visited the smaller neighboring island of St. John for some shopping — but only after taking a dip in the ocean while sipping ice-cold local beer from Leatherback Brewing. Captain Tim was a pro, finding the calmest, sunniest spots for snorkeling, and getting close enough to shore so we could swim to a hidden beach.
The Westin Beach Resort & Spa at Frenchman's Reef
In its early life, Frenchman's Reef first was as a Holiday Inn in the 1970s. Then it became a Marriott property, and it shuttered in 2017 after Hurricanes Irma and Maria devastated the island.
Now, post a multi-year, $425 million rebuild, the resort has reopened as two sister properties: The Westin Beach Resort & Spa at Frenchman's Reef and Morningstar Buoy Haus Beach Resort at Frenchman's Reef, Autograph Collection.
With 364 rooms and 28 suites, The Westin is the larger resort of the two (by far), as well as the largest hotel on St. Thomas. Most of its accommodations have an ocean view, thanks to the resort's prime peninsula perch. Decor here was brightened through a lighter design palette, and cascading architecture allows the lobby and guestrooms to overlook the pools — of which there are three, including an infinity-edge adults-only pool. Versatile room configurations and ample meeting space make this hotel ideal for families and larger groups. Bi-level, ocean-view suites come with private terraces and plenty of space downstairs to do yoga in the morning. (Clients can request yoga mats and more with the Westin Workout Gear Lending program.)
If its indulgent relaxation clients are after, there’s a full treatment menu at The Heavenly Spa; an exfoliating fruit enzyme body peel left my skin feeling silky smooth after rinsing off in the shower. The spa also has an adjacent salon for hair and nail services.
After a spa treatment, it’s time for more bliss: Clients can sip mimosas and nibble homemade hibiscus cookies while lounging on the plush daybeds or hanging chairs in the relaxation area overlooking the ocean. Both the men's and women's locker rooms include a steam room and infrared sauna that's large enough to relax in with a group of friends.
For sustenance, there are five delicious dining options at The Westin. Only at Sugarfin are guests asked to arrive in “smart casual” attire; poke, sushi, handrolls and more dot the menu, and locally distilled rums are touted here, too. Luna Mar offers Mediterranean eats overlooking the ocean, while coffee, juices and other grab-and-go items can be procured at Frenchman’s Roast. The all-day Shorebird restaurant and Edge Bar both have ocean views as well. Should guests want more options, they can easily walk to neighboring Bouy Haus.
Morningstar Buoy Haus Beach Resort, Marriott
Buoy House is more of a boutique property with 94 rooms; all of them feature an outdoor terrace, where visitors wake to the most scenic views in St. Thomas. Buoy Haus guests have their own pool, but otherwise, the two resorts share amenities, including the spa, a fitness center and kids club, which are at The Westin. Clients have signing privileges between the properties.
Parents can drop little ones off at the kids club for a half-day that includes lunch and activities such as watercolor salt paintings, scavenger hunts and outdoor giant bubble games. (The half-day rate is $80, and the resort plans to extend hours soon.)
There are four additional dining options and at Buoy House, bringing the grand total to nine. Among all of them, Isla Blue is the most ambitious, with a menu of creative dishes that utilize local ingredients. For example, there’s the tuna with chayote “noodles” (a riff on aguachile), and whole snapper two ways: grilled with smoked tomatillo-shiso salsa or fried with a blue-corn crust and passionfruit-pepper ponzu.
For a final nightcap on the beach or their private terrace, clients can take a “roadie” cocktail or wine to-go in a plastic cup, closing the day with the sound of crashing waves.