Where tourism is concerned, the Spanish capital of Madrid has long been overshadowed by coastal Barcelona — a shinier sibling who takes all the attention. But now, things are changing.
A barometer of this shift is the growing clutch of international brands launching five-star hotels in Madrid, including Four Seasons and Mandarin Oriental. Last year, the first JW Marriott in Spain opened steps from Puerta del Sol, a handsome pedestrian square that’s home to historic landmarks and the symbolic and geographical heart of Spain.
An Urban Retreat
Set on Plaza de Canalejas and housed in a 19th-century building that previously hosted one of the oldest perfumeries in Madrid, JW Marriott Madrid is a hotel where history is respected. In fact, the structure retains traces of its past, such as original wrought iron columns in the lobby and restaurant, as well as exposed brick walls in the spa and gym.
The interior design remit for the Madrid arm of architecture and design firm Rockwell Group was to create a place where guests could be mindful and feel rejuvenated while also enjoying a rich seam of culture. Walking into the well-lit lounge-like lobby, which features soft gray sofas dressed with paprika- and cream-colored cushions and a smart cocktail bar at one end, certainly feels restful and homey. (Although, I must say, I wish my house was more like this deeply luxurious space.) Despite the hard-to-beat prime location, there’s a hushed quality to this property — and not the dull library type — that’s immediately soothing and peaceful.
Soothing Guestrooms
Perhaps that’s why JW Marriott Madrid feels like a boutique hotel, though it isn’t one, with 139 rooms and suites spread over seven floors. I took the stairs to my sixth-floor Premium Deluxe Terrace room instead of the lift just so I could admire the lovely pale parquet-clad landings and ornate hand railings.
I don’t always enjoy staying in a hotel room on my own, but I loved it here. The room was generously proportioned without being cavernous, with crisp white bedding and soft natural shades everywhere else. The cherry on the cake was the plant-dotted terrace where I could catch some sun and admire the city’s perennial blue sky. Suites on the seventh floor have larger terraces where guests can practice yoga or meditation (or just sunbathe).
I was glad to see sustainable measures, from divided trash cans and Aromatherapy Associates refillable toiletries to amenities wrapped in paper and retro green housekeeping uniforms made from recycled materials. Rooms are also smart in the tech sense: The first time the curtains automatically closed, I thought the hotel might be haunted. Then I realized it’s just a clever way to keep the rooms cool in a hot country.
Localized Gifts
Local culture and history are again referenced in the (literally) sweet gift of La Violeta candies left for guests in their rooms. In the early 20th century, violeteras sold violet flowers covered in sugar; today, the treats are just shaped like the pretty flower and can be bought at the nearby Plaza de Canalejas store. (I resisted eating mine, putting them in my case for my ex-mother in law, named Violet.) And my room’s minibar was more like a small pantry: a drawer of posh bottles of tonic water that looked more like apothecary jars, cute geodesic jars of gummy bears and "wellness mix” (a nice way of saying nuts), along with elegant light green and pinkish mugs — much cooler than traditional white china cups and saucers.
Breakfast in Qu restaurant, an all-day dining space run by celebrated Michelin-star chef Mario Sandoval, is open from a generous 6 to 11 a.m., catering to sporty couples who’ve already lapped El Retiro Park, the city’s green lung, while others are getting into the shower. The decor is glamorous — mirrors set against rich blue walls add sparkle and reflect light, while more of those lovely iron pillars remind visitors of the building’s age. The buffet ranges from fresh fruit such as papaya, melon and strawberries to tempting donuts and swirls of smoked salmon, anchovies and sardines. There’s even a white-coated server carving Iberian ham to one side, not to mention gooey Spanish omelet or tortilla Espanola. You can order eggs any way you like from the menu; I chose scrambled, which came with a leafy green salad dressed with a mustard vinaigrette.
With so many amazing tapas bars in the surrounding streets, I chose bar-hopping over eating in the hotel when it came to lunch and dinner, although classics such as ham croquettes, fried calamari with aioli and grilled artichokes are on the menu. Madrid’s nightlife is the stuff of legends, and you’ll find plenty of inspiration on the tourist board’s website.
There’s a warmth to the JW Marriott Madrid that other luxury properties lack; it’s partly the soothing colors and textures, the near-constant glimpses of Madrid’s big blue sky and the fresh fragrance in the lobby. But it’s also the staff, who seem to have perfected the fine art of friendly and efficient service without being overbearing. For me, it was pretty perfecto.