Gazing up at the leaves of a banana tree, I couldn’t help but marvel at the giant, red-purple blossom that hung above my head. Its petals had parted to reveal an emerging bunch of bananas, still in their infancy — not something I regularly see back home in Los Angeles.
This taste of agricultural education was part of a tour at Kuilima Farm, a relatively new, food safety-certified growing operation at Turtle Bay Resort, Oahu’s iconic North Shore property. The farm, which opened its first phase in 2020, was originally an overgrown lot of land “that wasn’t doing anything for the public,” according to our guide, Carolyn. Now, however, farmers (in cooperation with the resort) are using it to grow native Hawaiian ingredients and other produce, from citrus and sugarcane to breadfruit, taro, passionfruit, herbs, coconut, ginger, medicinal plants and more. A greenhouse has even been added to grow rows of colorful lettuces.
More than 800 pounds of Kuilima produce go to Turtle Bay each week, where the culinary team works them into restaurant dishes and cocktails for true farm-to-table fare. In addition to tasting Kuilima’s bounty around the resort, guests can book a 45-minute tour of the farm (for an added fee) to learn about Hawaii’s agricultural heritage. They can even walk away with a few items to sample — Carolyn packed us a to-go bag with ripe passionfruit, my fiance’s favorite, and turmeric root for tea in our room.
The farm project is also noteworthy for its wider benefit to North Shore residents. At farmstands out front, other Oahu growers sell their products to a mix of tourists and community members, who pull off Kamehameha Highway to grab bags of sweet pineapple chunks or juicy pomegranate seeds, fresh baked goods, seasonal vegetables and more. There are also events (such as a Halloween pumpkin patch) and a community garden for locals.
Renovation Wrap-Up
The farm is not the only recent development at Turtle Bay, which underwent a $250 million renovation, mostly during a pandemic closure from March 2020 to July 2021. The final touches of the project wrapped up just this past summer with the reopening of Nalu Spa.
Guests will see the project’s effects all around the resort. The expansive lobby now offers plenty of relaxing nooks, and the Off the Lip bar overlooks an infinity-edge water feature with the ocean just beyond — ideal for sunset views.
A terraced pool deck, meanwhile, features an adults-only area raised above the family space (complete with two waterslides). The bustling Sunset pool bar serves casual fare and drinks, and has a seating area that is perfectly positioned for watching local surfers in action.
The guestroom design is bold but tasteful; the focal point of my ocean-view room was undeniably the image of a crashing wave on the wall above the bed — but with more neutral colors and patterns throughout the rest of the room, the look balanced out nicely. Most rooms feature an ocean view and a balcony, though patios range in size. For clients who will want to fully enjoy that space (as I did each morning with my coffee), book a room with a larger lanai — the plush patio furniture is divine, as are the views.
For an upgraded experience, add access to the Ocean Club Lounge, an indoor-outdoor space with complimentary food and drinks during breakfast and lunch, plus hors d’oeuvres and alcoholic beverages in the evening hours. Or, for real exclusivity, book one of the 42 Ocean Bungalows, set in a restricted-access space directly facing the sea. What’s more, they come with their own concierges, a grassy lawn area and a private, adults-only pool.
Tasting Oahu: Resort Restaurants
Turtle Bay’s culinary team says that on-site dining “is driven by the influence of the Hawaiian land,” particularly at signature restaurant Alaia.
Menus are influenced by visits to Kuilima and other farms to check out seasonal produce, as well as test runs with Kuilima farmers to determine if desired ingredients will grow well for use on the property. William Lochetto, the chef de cuisine at Alaia, uses those products in what the team describes as “modern cuisine” of the Hawaiian Islands — influenced by its diverse populations and flavors, including Japanese, Filipino, Vietnamese and Thai.
My meal at Alaia was certainly a standout: A whole fried snapper arrived at the table hot and crispy, accompanied by chili glaze and a refreshing green papaya slaw. A side order of garlicky Japanese eggplant was a more modest sight, but packed an addictive flavor punch.
More favorite meals came by way of the Beach House by Roy Yamaguchi, appropriately located just off the sand. Chef Yamaguchi is an icon of Hawaiian dining, and his offerings here did not disappoint. Still sandy from the beach, my fiance and I enjoyed a casual but delicious lunch of ahi poke nachos and a mixed plate of two local classics, garlic shrimp and kalua pork. During a more formal dinner, we opted for super-fresh and perfectly prepared fish dishes, including a misoyaki black cod and an herb-marinated mahi mahi.
Endless Activities
But perhaps my favorite part of the Turtle Bay experience is just how far it extends — about 1,300 acres, in fact, including 5 miles of coastline and 12 miles of trails. This expansive footprint allows the resort to offer a seemingly endless list of activities that lets travelers get a varied taste of Oahu.
My fiance and I loved the morning we spent on a kayak tour (operated by Shaka Kayaks), paddling carefully among green sea turtles in a sheltered bay. Another day, we headed to the on-site stables for a scenic horseback ride along the coast. Even if clients aren’t going out for a ride, they can stop by to visit with the resident horses and a new group of adorable goats.
But those two options are just a drop in the bucket. On my list for next time are evening stargazing and the resort’s new nighttime snorkeling experience. There are also surf lessons, a helicopter tour that takes off from the property, pickleball, wood carving, a cultural bike tour, a tennis clinic, a Hawaiian cowboy-inspired luau, golf on an Arnold Palmer-designed course (the George Fazio course is currently closed for a remodel) and so much more.
All the above options require reservations and additional charges, but guests can also get a taste of local culture from complimentary offerings, such as lei-making or ukulele lessons, and the nightly sunset ritual and “fire knife” show. And tell clients not to miss the live music each evening in the lobby and at the pool bar — paired with a drink and the sunset, it’s the perfect way to end any Oahu day.